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First day on the water: Outpost and Terra checklist

Pre-launch boat check, seat fit, rudder deployment, first pedal with the indexer set, and sit-stand transitions — the new-owner checklist for a clean first paddle on an Outpost 100, Outpost 128, or Terra 116.

Got your new Outpost 100, Outpost 128, or Terra 116 home and you're heading to the water. Here's the pre-launch checklist that bridges the gap between "unboxed" and "fishing confidently." Run through it the night before and you won't be the person fumbling at the ramp.

The night before

1. Drain plug — installed?

Sounds obvious; lots of new owners launch without it. The drain plug is small, easy to forget after a hull check, and the consequences are immediate (water inside the hull). Confirm it's seated and snug before you load the boat.

2. Rudder — installed and deployable?

The rudder mounts to the center Power-Pole bolt pattern on the stern (default). Confirm:

  • Pivot bolt is tight at the Power-Pole bracket
  • Steering cables are clipped to the rudder pivot points
  • Pull-up / deploy cord routes forward to within reach of the cockpit
  • The blade swings freely left/right when you press the foot pedals

If the rudder is missing from the box (this was a known issue on some Terra / Outpost first-run kits), file the claims form — we ship a free replacement kit direct from our TN warehouse.

3. Pedal drive — locked in the hull?

If you bundled the Traverse Pedal Drive:

  • Drop the drive into the molded socket
  • Confirm it seats fully (no gap at the head)
  • Lock the drive via its retention mechanism
  • Don't pedal yet — that's a water test

4. Seat — clipped in and centered?

The Horizon Pro Seat has fore/aft adjustment and recline. Set both to a middle position for the first paddle. You'll tune it on the water once you know what you want.

5. Foot pedals (Slide Lock braces) — sized to your legs?

Set the Slide Lock foot braces to fit your leg length. You should be able to fully press both pedals with a slight bend in the knee — not straight-legged, not knees-up-to-your-chest. Lock them in position.

6. Hardware once-over

Quick walk around the boat checking that any accessory you added (rod holders, mounts, etc.) is fully tightened. Vibration loosens hardware over a hot drive day.

At the ramp

1. Unload — bunk cart or two-person carry

If you have a YakAttack TowNStow bunkster cart, this is its moment. Strap the boat to the cart, wheel to the water. If you're solo without a cart, plan a two-stage carry or a trailer to bunk-style ramp setup.

Avoid top-loaded landing-gear style carts (Boonedox, Wilderness Freedom Launcher, Sidekick). They suspend the hull weight from the gunwales and gear tracks, which damages the boat. We don't warranty that damage.

2. Load gear before launching

Easier to load on dry ground than from the water. Set the boat parallel to the shore, load tackle, rods, drinks, electronics, and any drybags before you slide it in.

On the water

1. Sit-paddle launch

Get into the boat seated. Paddle out a short distance into open water before deploying the rudder or pedal drive. Get a feel for hull balance with your gear loaded.

2. Deploy the rudder

Pull the deploy cord. The blade drops into the water behind the boat. Test foot-steering — press left, the boat turns left; press right, the boat turns right. Test hand-steering — turn the handle, the rudder responds.

If anything binds or feels rough, that's a known issue on some early steering handles. File the claims form and we'll swap it.

3. Set the indexer and start pedaling

With the boat in open water:

  • Drop the prop into the engaged position
  • Pedal forward gently for the first 30 seconds — the indexer should set, the prop should spin smoothly
  • Ramp up cadence and watch for any unusual sound or vibration

The prop should sit vertical when the indexer is engaged. If you can see the prop sitting at 45° when locked, that's the indexer alignment defect — stop pedaling, take a photo, file the claims form. See Troubleshooting your Traverse Pedal Drive.

4. Try reverse

Spin the cranks the other direction. The drive should respond instantly — no lag, no clunk. This is one of the headline features. Use it.

5. Hand off to foot steering

Once you're comfortable, try steering with feet only, hands off the handle. Most owners end up using both at different moments — feet when hands are full, hand for fine adjustments. Get comfortable with both today.

6. Sit-stand transition

When you're comfortable in flat water:

  • Pedal to a stop
  • Place hands on the gunwales or gear tracks
  • Stand up gradually, using your legs to lift while keeping your weight centered over the hull
  • The standing deck is solid and won't flex — trust it

First standing rides feel less stable than they are. Most owners are surprised by how confident the boat is once they let go of the death grip on the rails.

7. Sit back down before fatigue

Don't stand longer than feels good. Sit back down before your legs get tired and shaky — standing while fatigued is when balance issues happen.

Back at the trailer / car

1. Drain the hull

Pull the drain plug, tip the bow up, let the water drain. Especially important if you fished salt — scuppers and the drain plug area accumulate water.

2. Rinse if you were in salt

Hose down everything: hull, drive (head + lower unit + prop), rudder, U-connector, steering cables, foot pedals. Salt is the enemy of every moving part. See Maintaining your Cajo.

3. Dry storage

Don't bag a wet boat or drive. Air-dry first, then store.

What to do if something feels off

Anything that doesn't feel right on the first paddle — file the claims form. We'd rather diagnose a small issue early than have you fishing for a season with something that's going to fail. The known-issue swaps are $0; we just need to know.

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