Anatomy of the Traverse Fatback Rudder

The Fatback is Cajo's rudder system — included with every rigid kayak, available on Highlander AirTrek inflatables as part of the rudder kit. This article names every part, explains what each one does, and points to the related Q&As for setup, maintenance, and troubleshooting.

The big picture

The Fatback gives you two ways to steer at the same time: a steering handle at your right hand, and foot pedals on the floor of the cockpit. Both inputs route to the same rudder blade via two stainless steering cables. You can use one, the other, or both depending on the situation.

The rudder mounts to the center Power-Pole Micro Anchor bolt pattern on the stern. That's the same three-position pattern every Cajo rigid hull has — so the rudder shares mounting real estate with any Power-Pole-compatible trolling motor or anchor system, and you can offset the rudder onto a flanking mount if you want to put a motor down the centerline.

Part by part

The rudder blade

Stamped composite blade, mounted to a stainless pivot at the Power-Pole bracket. The blade swings left/right under cable input, and pivots up/down independently via the pull-up cord. Stowed up, the blade is out of the water and clear of the prop or transom. Deployed, it sits in the water behind the boat.

The Power-Pole bracket

The bracket that bolts the rudder pivot to the center Power-Pole bolt pattern on the stern. Included with every rudder kit. You don't buy this separately — it ships in the box with a new boat or as part of a replacement rudder kit.

The pull-up / deploy cord

A cord runs from the rudder blade forward to within reach of the cockpit. Pull the cord to deploy or retract the blade. If your pull-up cord is too short — common on early Highlander production — we send a longer one at no charge. File the claims form or ping support.

The steering cables

Two stainless steel cables run from the steering handle and the foot pedals back to the rudder blade. They cross at the U-connector and pull the blade left or right depending on which side gets tension.

The locking bolts that secure the cables at the pivot are M5 × 12mm, 316 stainless, truss-head or mushroom-head. If you ever lose one, that's the spec — or file the claims form and we'll send replacements.

The U-connector

The point at the rear of the boat where both cables converge on the rudder pivot. The U-connector is what translates "pedal pressed" or "handle turned" into "blade angled." It's a stainless piece that lives in saltwater and weather — give it a rinse and a light marine lube when you do your seasonal maintenance.

The foot pedals (Slide Lock foot braces)

Cajo's foot braces are Slide Lock style — they slide forward and back on tracks to fit different leg lengths, and lock in position. Press the right pedal, turn right. Press the left, turn left. The pedals also serve as your foot brace platform for pedaling the Traverse Drive.

All Cajo rigid hulls are pre-wired for foot steering — meaning the cable runs are routed through the hull when you receive the boat, you don't have to add any plumbing.

The steering handle

The hand input. A small handle that lives on the right side of the cockpit (default — can be swapped to the left if you ask). Turn the handle, the cable on that side pulls, the rudder swings.

If your steering handle starts feeling like it's binding, fraying cable, or won't turn in one direction, that's a known-issue part we replace at $0 — file the claims form, we ship a fresh one direct. See the steering handle issues article.

Foot vs. hand steering — when to use each

Most owners use both at different moments:

• Hand steering is great when you're stationary, fighting a fish, holding a precise heading on a troll, or making fine course adjustments without taking your feet off the pedals.
• Foot steering is great when your hands are full — paddle, rod, net, controller — and you need to bear off, turn, or hold a course hands-free.

If you're rigging a sit-stand boat and you want to be standing while pedaling and steering, foot steering becomes essential (your hands are typically on a rod or a paddle when you're up).

Common adjustments

Cable tension

Steering cables stretch slightly over the first weeks of use, then stabilize. If you find the rudder isn't responding crisply, check tension at the U-connector and the handle attachment. A small tension adjustment is normal; major slack might indicate a frayed cable — file the claims form.

Pull-up cord length

If the cord is too short to reach the cockpit comfortably, we send a longer replacement. No charge — just ping support.

Rudder mount location

The rudder ships in the center Power-Pole position. If you're running a trolling motor down the centerline and want the rudder offset, you can move it to one of the two flanking Power-Pole mounts. The rudder still steers from offset; the only consideration is making sure the cable runs don't pull at an awkward angle.

Known issues we cover at $0

• Steering handle binding or cable fraying — known issue, full handle replacement at $0
• Rudder controls hard in one direction — same root cause (handle), same $0 swap
• Pull-up cord too short — longer cord at $0
• Missing rudder kit from a first-run hull — full kit at $0

For any of these, the path is the claims form at caminojourney.com/pages/claims-form.

Maintenance touchpoints

• Freshwater rinse after every saltwater outing
• Light marine lube on the U-connector pivot and cable pulleys, once a season
• Check cable for fraying (visible strands sticking out) at the handle and the U-connector
• Check pull-up cord for wear and fraying

Related links

• Is the rudder included with each kayak?
• Can I move the rudder mount location?
• Rudder pull-up cord too short — fix